The Wave

For anyone who considers themselves a landscape photographer of the American Southwest, Coyote Buttes is a must-do. Amazingly, it's on the bucket lists of people all over this planet. Enter a lottery system to manage the number of persons who can visit.

I read on Yahoo! on Saturday that a California couple died en route to "The Wave," the signature formation of the Coyote Buttes area. The story can be read on the San Francisco Chronicle website:
http://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/Campbell-couple-dies-on-hot-Utah-hike-4649233.php

The original post I read was deeply slanted against the BLM (Bureau of Land Management, the government agency responsible for maintaining a disproportionate amount of our national land resources, in relation to the amount of resources the bureau is given in money and employees), blasting its policy of allowing only 20 persons per day through the lottery system, as if more people out there would have helped save this one couple somehow.

We're talking about an area along the Utah and Arizona border that encompasses thousands, if not millions, of acres of ground, with no roads to speak of other than some jeep trails.

We have been out there twice, having secured walk-on permits both times. Both times in summer. (Gil also got a chance to hike there in January 2008 with his brother, but that's a different story).

The first trip was not unlike the conditions or situations that the Wahlis experienced on the Fourth of July. Temperatures exceeding the century mark, slickrock radiating the heat, deep sand trudging and one lone tree along the trail to offer up any sign of shade. It is exceptionally beautiful and at the same time, incredibly harsh.

We were woefully unprepared for this hike. If the government is at fault in any way, it's that they describe the hike as 3 miles; what they fail to mention is that is just one direction. They offer a packet complete with trail maps, geographic positioning and photographic clues to target areas to guide the way there for the lottery winners. There is no such thing for the way back. When we took this first hike out, we had our permits and some water and snacks for what we expected to be a 3-mile hike.

It was so dreadfully hot that my camera passed out right when we got to the "Wave" formation. Not very long after, I was almost in a similar state. And it was a long way back to the automobile. We made it, but it wasn't pretty. We have our Keens, our Garmins and a very warm Gatorade to thank.

Two summers ago on our second trip out (this time with our friend, Marcia), we planned much more carefully, including starting the hike out in afternoon to give us the hike back with the setting sun. We had plenty of water and enough food to last us until 11:59 (the permit allows day use only, but it's a full 24 hours, from 12:01 AM to 11:59 PM). Indeed, the rangers at the Pariah Station were pretty adamant about plenty of water and having the supplies to make it out and back, as well that this is NOT a walk in the park, nor for the faint of heart. Their warnings were stern and strongly worded.

We have been exceptionally fortunate to have been able to secure the permits necessary for this hike and applaud our government agencies for enforcing their policy of land management to keep this area pristine for those who get to go. (although we'd like to talk to them about the dog permits: WHY?!)

There are no paved paths or bronze plaques, just wide open vistas. Just as it should be.

Our condolences to the Wahli family. We know it's no small consolation, but we've been there and we know what it's like.